Though mournful fado may be its most famous musical tradition, the atmosphere in Portugal is far from melancholic. You’ll fall in love with the sweeter-than-pastéis-de-nata locals and the soothing sh’s that fill their conversations. Listen for the rattling tram in Lisbon and the popping of corks along the Douro. You’ll be lulled by the crashing of waves along the Algarve’s southern shore and the whale calls that circle the Azores. As for the cuisine — rich meats and fresh seafood, heavy ports and delicate vinho verde — it speaks for itself.